Ayers Rock is a resort in the middle of the desert, and by resort read the worse meaning of the word. A circular road with less than 5 hotels and one camping/backpacker place. All owned by the same company. All incredibly expensive. People go there for one reason only: to see Uluru. And when you come from far far away of course you won't say no and go back to where you came from without seeing "the Rock". They know it and they take advantage of it.On the other side has to be said that the place is indeed spectacular, and because of the big open spaces everywhere even if there's so many tourist around you you don't feel too close or oppressed. Even more controversial is the fact that the Aboriginal people are indeed the owners of the place, but only a fraction of the entrance charge goes to them. And to add more their belief says that people shouldn't climb the holy rock, still climbing it is possible to everybody (for a price of course). All this controversy adds somehow to the myth and fashion of the place. It is indeed one of those "must see in your lifetime" places. More is discussed on the excellent Real Australian Outback Guide.
So what did I do? Climbing? not really. Of all the ways of disrespecting a culture this is indeed the most "tiring" one. I went instead for a camel ride at sunset, followed by glass of wine and camel salami (ride them then eat them could have been the company motto). I've learnt how camels were important in the old days to travel the desert, how they were imported and then when they were no longed needed released, with the consequence that now that are more than 800K wild camels roaming free. I've learnt how they are quite clever, they say like a 7 year old child. I would add they are also a lot more quieter and well behaved than a a child at that age.After a night spent in a classic (but still recreated for tourists) outback bar listening all night to "A home among the gum trees" the next day I went for one of those tours that will guide through the base of the Rock, explain aboriginal legends and then bring you to see Uluru from a distance at sunset.
The good thing about this tour is that was managed by Aboriginal people, so at least a bit more than the small fraction of the park entry charge will go to them. And speaking of sunset, there are two specific sunset areas (and same for sunrise); one for cars, one for buses. Nowhere else in the park you can just stop and admire. The sunset areas are basically huge carparks, with people sipping wine or barbecuing while "admiring" the view. If the images below revealing the "behind the picture" reality didn't spoil it for you yet you can always check out the video. Not ideal, but still a great view, plus as I said plenty of space, so you can find your little corner to take your picture of the rock in peace or simply savour the moment.
And even with all the crowds, the smell of bbq, the hundreds of cars or coaches parked behind you.. when the sun goes down and you see the reflections on the rock, well for a second or two you forget all the rest, and I suppose that makes it worth it.
While you're there check out related stories:
The Colours of the Desert: Alice Springs
Cairns, Rainforest and Fight for Life
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