Well I can say that definitely many people go there. I wasn't really able to fully enjoy the magic of the place, feeling at all time a tourist between the tourists. Many of them were the worse type: huge groups in all-organised tours, or Lonely Planet worshipers. I don't think I've ever seen so many guidebooks in one place and time. Honestly, these people wouldn't step a meter further without consulting their guidebook. They didn't have the guidebook in their bag, opening it at a crossroad or in front of a temple. The guidebook would be always, constantly in front of their face, often covering the real sights.
Many told me how until not too long ago Chiang Mai was not this popular and was a little paradise. I guess the two main culprits are the above mentioned guidebooks and a direct flight from Phuket, bringing the worse kind of tourist in town: the Phuket holiday makers, that now can tell their friends how their holiday was not only laying on a beach, they “saw a lot of Thai culture” too).
My main goal as a consequence became avoiding the masses of white flesh (definition borrowed from this interesting post) and trying to find some nice secluded spots. So here's my:
Guide to avoid tourist hordes in Chiang Mai
Night Market
One of the most popular spots in town. Hundreds of stalls selling basically everything, although mostly t-shirts and souvenirs; don't expect the variety of Bangkok street markets. Be there from 6 to 8, while the masses are having dinner. After 8 Spanish, Italian and French will be the only languages you'll hear, and it will be almost impossible to walk around.
Famous Temples
Yes, while you're there you want to see the most famous ones. Be there early in the morning (you can take beautiful pics of the begging monks going around town too), or choose a rainy day. Go, don't expect to be in an environment to contemplate the beauty of the temples or meditate, try not too have too many random tourists in your pics and leave.
Not Famous at all Temples
My favourite past-time. Start walking, at some stage get off the main road and get lost. Best way to find the odd temple with nobody in there. Nobody, sometime a dog or cat having a nap just outside. Not even the monks inside. All for you. Bless. Admire the Buddha statues, have a look at the paintings. Take your time. Sit down and have a bit of me time. You could even bring a book. And experience a Buddha smile appearing on your face thinking of the people fighting to take a picture of the “recommended” temple.
City Arts & Cultural Center
I would normally avoid museums. As Coelho said talking about travelling in his blog: “if you are in a foreign city, isn’t it far more interesting to seek out the present, than the past?”. This one is abit different. First of all it's an almost tourist free oasis. When I was there we were in all 5-6 visitors, scattered through many floors, baconies and verandas. The museum will give you a good insight on history, culture and significance of Chiang Mai. Plus a couple of very nice shrines.
Tours to typical villages (including Long Neck tribes)
Unfortunately to avoid most of them. Best case it's just a tourist trap. Some "be the first one to visit" villages are just a series of gift shops. Villagers are sometime exploited, like the sad case of the Long Neck Karen tribes; people who've been in the villages described it as a human zoo.
Dining
Loads of pretty girls calling you for food, drinks and company on the main road. They say "welcome" like if you were already in (while it's clear you have no intention to go in) and offer the best burgers and pizzas. No thanks. Find a local with a good menu with lot of things to try out, and no girls calling you. Stick to the place. After a few times you'll become a local, and it's nice to chat to the staff, see how they see the world, and what is it like to live in Chiang Mai. Some old expat might be around too, usually with better English than the residents and the vision of someone who has not simply seen but lived in both East and West of the world. Usually a good chat.
If you're going to Chiang Mai I hope this little guide is helpful. If you're just following my adventures.. well that's how I did it folks!
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