Sunday, November 16, 2008

Lombok like Bali? The “Balification” process

Not all was nice and lovely in Lombok unfortunately.

I have to say that I've found Senggigi quite changed already, in less than a year time. The name I came up with for the change is Balification: things here are starting to get too similar to Bali.

First of all sellers on the beach and on the roads are getting pushier and pushier; the beach was already off limit to tourists because of that (many prefer to spend time in the well protected swimming pools); it's impossible to walk or have a meal anywhere or without having sellers all over you. As a consequence many restaurants and hotels have signs asking customers not to talk or invite sellers in; some posh hotels even have barriers and anti-sellers security men.

Of course this is a vicious circle, as sellers of course need to make some money to eat, and will be even more aggressive in places where they are allowed, but at the same time this doesn't sure help visitors having a relaxed stay.

senggigi sellers
Consider also that almost every shop owner tends to take advantage of the fact that you're a visitor and not familiar with local prices. The price of a bottle of water at the same shop depends for example on whether you'll be served by the owner or his wife. In many occasions while paying in shops I had to wait and make clear that I wanted my change back. They looked almost surprised, a “visitor” that knows how much something costs! Of course I don't mind leaving the change or a tip, but I want it to be my choice and not being considered a dumb tourist.

senggigi sellers lombok
Another effect of the Balification process is more “bad” tourist coming over. Many of them are sexual tourist, and the consequence is more and more prostitution. While before sex workers were hanging around in few clubs and discos now you even see them down the road at night. Not a pretty sight.

To add to my frustration for the Balification process internet connection (which was quite decent in February and March) was rarely available, and I've found even the service in many places that I liked much worse.

I thought a lot about all these changes. Is it possible that Senggigi got so much worse in less than 10 months? Is it possible that when I came here the first time I was so excited about my trip beginning, seeing new places and cultures, and coming from a stressful environment didn't mind or even notice all these things? But then just one month ago I was in Langkawi, where like in Lombok the pace of life is very slow, and there's the same lack of Western facilities like decent internet connection, footpaths, cash registers that allow to have your bill in less than 20 minutes.

Still i loved there, while now I don't know if I would recommend Senggigi as a tourist destination to my friends now.

Unless of course you go there for Kampung Loco. That was what really made the trip. Not only my friends, but everyone in the village really considered me one of them, was super nice and polite. Going there you see the real life in Lombok, you forget the pains of tourist life in Senggigi and most important you learn to really appreciate the people and their culture there.

Feel free to contact Lombok Travel Info if you ever wish to visit or stay in the village. My friends there will be more than happy to help you and show you around.